The Taste of Delhi: A Unique Food Culture

Delhi, is an epicureans’ paradise. The diverse range of cuisines makes Delhi a gourmet’s delight. Delhi offers a mixture of North Indian,  Mughlai, Punjabi cuisine and mouth watering street fare. Where else would you find a street named after flatbreads? Parathewali Gali. By the way if you are down there try the Papad Paratha.

Food of Delhi (Photo courtesy Delhi Tourism)
Food of Delhi (Photo courtesy Delhi Tourism)

Street food is the mark of any city – Sitaram Diwanchand’s chole Bhatures, Kuremal’s Kulfis since 1908, Moth Kachori of Multani Dhanda, Jain Sa’ab’s kachoris, Pakorimal Doodhwala’s Milk and Lassi, Bade Mian’s Kheer, Kinari Bazar’s Khurchan, Kulle chaat of Chawri Bazaar, Daulat Ki Chaat, Japani Samosa, Fruit Sandwiches at Jain Coffee House, Giani’s Faluda, Keema Samosa, Sutli Kababs etc. Ghantewala’s Sohan Halwa has been tickling taste buds since 1709. The royal elephant reportedly refused to budge without his daily dose of Ghantewala’s sweets and he used to shake his head to ring the bell tied to his neck to demand sweets. So the halwai got the name Ghantewala.

The place to seek variety in Mughlai food is in the Old city area – Karim’s and Al Jawahar are famous but many an unsung Kababchi or Biryani Wala will surprise you.

Delhi has a big migrant population from all over India. Earlier eateries at state houses served their regional delicacies. Sarvana Bhavan is particularly well known for Andhra cuisine. In CR Park at South Delhi area cuisine from Bengal dominates with cutlets, rolls and sweets having a field day with the varieties of fish on offer. In fact all the state houses have eateries – little known but tasty fare. Regional cuisine is finding its foothold slowly – in restaurants like Brown Sahib and the Gunpowder.

If you are willing to seek out, Delhi has a lot to offer on the culinary trail. For example the Afghani food joint in Lajpat Nagar or the Russian place – Bline, Korean food at Sun and Moon or the Gung in Green park, or excellent Continental fare in the Metropolis restaurant.

Chandni Chowk is a different dimension all together. “No ads, no frills, great food – great prices” says the nameless milk cake shop of Kucha Ghasi Ram. Kashmiri Kebabchi opposite to the Shan Masjid and Bade Mian’s are famous and  few gems in this treasure chest of good food.

Commenting on delicious dishes like Biryani is a bit difficult. It is a touchy subject and diehard Lucknavis will pay little heed to Dilli’s fare and Hyderabad is and Kolkattans will swear by their fare but a trip at Hazi Noor Mohammed near Turkman gate or Babbu Bhai near Matka Pir might convert a few. Similarly Lucknow’s ‘Kakori Kebabs’ has a competitor in Dilli’s Gola Kabab of Mian Sahib near Jama Masjid.

Another, landmark “Delhi Haat” Near INA Market and Netaji Subhas Place, showcases India’s rich handicrafts and regional food heritage from all the Indian states. It’s a must visit for handicraft and culinary buffs.

Writing about a diverse and well researched subject like Delhi’s food at best is a difficult task. Eminent food critics have dedicated entire blogs on the subject but only few desperate writers would be able  to condense Saadi Dilli’s food in such a short span. It is only my fascination for food and lack of a meaningful ‘Adda’ that I am accustomed to have made a lazy fellow like me to amble across to some of these heavenly eating joints. The experience of describing a Gola Kabab dissolve in your mouth would strain my modest vocabulary and perhaps offend the non carnivorous type. But I would like to hear it from you – your experience, be it an obscure Kachori Wala or a Kulfi Wala – you know the place to tell me all about it – so I might log some more food travel miles.

What are you thinking…. simply post your comment, if you feel we have left any food of your choice and any food courts in Delhi. Lets us know your Food experience, while you are in Delhi. For Delhi Darshan and day tour, please leave a message at metu@toshali.in

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Delhi World Heritage Sites: A New Delhi City Tour

Delhi is a rough triangle formed by the Aravallis in the west and river Yamuna in the east. Settlements dating back to Stone Age has been uncovered. Its magnificent monuments span a period of almost a thousand years. Different dynasties built their capitals here.  Archaeological evidence points to between 8 to 12 sites in and around Delhi, where a new city was built. Some of them are Lal Kot and Quila Rai Pithora in the early medieval period; Tughlaqabad and Kotla by the Sultanate rulers, the Mughal capital of Shahjahanabad and New Delhi, by the British. Many heritage historians have mentioned that Delhi was also the site of the capital of the Pandavas of Mahabharata – Indraprastha. Folklore goes that the present Purana Quila or Old fort of Delhi stands over the site that was once Indraprastha.

The Tughlakabad fort built by Ghyasuddin Tughlak was once an imposing structure. The last ruler of the Tughlak dynasty Feroze Shah ruled for 37 years. He built a fort Ferozeshah Kotla, a fort which has no remnants today. The Ferozeshah Kotla – scene of many major cricketing duels stadium stands today on the erstwhile site of the fort. Feroze Shah is also credited with building the top two floors of the Qutab Minar when lightning destroyed in 1368. There are three World Heritage Sites in Delhi.

•       Red Fort: Built by Shah Jahan, between 1638 and 1648. It houses the Diwan-i-Khas and the Diwan-i-Am, the Rang Mahal, Moti Masjid etc.

•       Humayun’s Tomb: Built in 1570 AD by Humayun’s wife Haji Begum. It is a standout example of Mughal architecture.

•       Jama Masjid: Constructed in 1656 AD under the guidance of the Prime Minster of Shah Jahan, Saadullah Khan.

Besides these, the Qutub Minar and Quwwat-al-Islam (Might of Islam), the earliest extant mosque in India graces Delhi. The Jantar Mantar – an astronomical observatory was built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II of Jaipur in the year 1724. Safdarjung’s tomb and Madrasa enrich Delhi’s heritage.

There are many hidden gems of historic monuments here. The Khirki Masjid (Mosque) in Saket is a small but uniquely designed mosque. The Dargah of Sufi saint Qutubddin Bakhtiyar Kaki near the Qutab and ‘Agrasen ki  Baoli’ in the middle of Connaught Place.

The capital is one of the greenest capitals and the gardens here reflect the eclectic taste of its erstwhile rulers. “Mughal Gardens” inside the President’s estate is one of the best laid out, the beautifully landscaped “Lodi Gardens” encloses the tombs of an imperial dynasty. The Old city has “Begam Ka Bagh” – appointed by the eldest daughter of emperor Shah Jahan – Jahan Ara – the last remnants of it are now parts of the Gandhi park near Chandhi Chowk, “Roshnara Gardens” was laid out by Jahanara’s younger sister Roshnara in 1650 – the garden would be later infamous for her amorous exploits and would bear the pathos of her slow, painful death by poisoning in 1671. “Shalimar Bagh” was appointed by Akbarbadi Begum – the favourite wife of Shah Jahan after Mumtaz Mahal. “Qudsia Garden” was named after begum Qudsia and Tees Hazari was named after the number of trees in the garden appointed by the builder emperor Shah Jahan.

Each place has its unique historic significance – “Gurdwara Sheesh Ganj” remembers a martyred Sikh Guru while “Khooni Darwaza” is where Bahadur Shah’s sons were executed.

Every nook and corner of the old city has a tale to tell. In the walled city the “Neharwali Haveli” at Darya Ganj is where Gen. Parvez Musharraf  was born, the “Churiwali Haveli” of Begum Samroo (Begum Sombre actually) who rose from a courtesan to a Zamindar, or around the corner in Ballimaran, the haveli which saw the last days of the unparalled Urdu poet  Mirza Ghalib.

Cutting to modern times the India Gate, Lotus temple, Akshardham stand out as landmarks.

Toshali Resorts, welcomes all to be the part Delhi Darshan, site seeing experiencing, exclusive arrangement has been done for the guest to witness and be the part of the festival. For holiday as well as “Delhi Darshan”  Tour Package Reservation write to metu@toshali.in

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